Day 20 - ANZAC Day

 25 April 2023 – ANZAC Day

 Each year I attend a dawn service to pay my respects, but it was totally different attending a dawn service at ANZAC Cove on the Gallipoli peninsula. After being collected from the hotel at 11:30pm, we went through multiple security checks before arriving at ANZAC Cove at about 1:30am. The entrance is closed at 2:30am, and if you are not at the ceremony location by then, you miss out. The first thing that struck me was that the whole grass area was littered with people in sleeping bags and rugged up in blankets. They were much better prepared than us! There was a large screen which was being used to tell the story of the ANZACs through documentaries. We settled down on the grass, dozing and watching the documentaries, as we waited for the 5:30am service to begin. We had some rain, which just seemed to add to the whole experience.

The dawn service was very traditional and proper, and it was interesting to note the tranquility as the morning light changed on the steep slopes behind up. The lone piper, who piped as the wreaths were laid, caused goose bumps, as did the singing of the three national anthems. Having watched the documentaries first, we had a renewed appreciation of the horror (and the heroism) that the soldiers experienced when they landed in 1915. To be standing in the same spot seemed unreal. Looking at the steep terrain around us, I have no idea how they had the strength and courage to tackle it while under constant heavy fire. It is so removed from the world that I live in – thanks to them.

 

Centre picture is looking up from the ANZAC memorial towards Lone Pine.

After the dawn service, we had about four hours to walk from ANZAC Cove up the steep slope to Lone Pine via Artillery Road and then on to Chunuk Bair for the New Zealand service at 11:30am, a walk of about 8kms. It was probably the longest, steepest continuous walk that I have ever done and constantly I was thinking of the young men (average age was 27 years) who spent months under heavy artillery fire in these steep slopes and valleys. We were able to stop at CWMG cemeteries on the way up, including Snippers Gully Cemetery, Shell Green Cemetery, Browns Dip Plot, Johnston’s Gully Cemetery, plus many others. We passed trenches and tunnels along the side of the road – at one point the two enemy trenches were only 5m apart. We stopped briefly to visit Lone Pine Cemetery, where the Australian’s were staying for their service, and then continued up (and up) to Chunuk Bair for the New Zealand service.

The New Zealand service was amazing, and I found it more moving than the dawn service. We didn’t have a lone piper, but we did have beautiful, spine tingling singing and music and a very emotional Defence Force haka. I think it was also so moving because it was a smaller crowd than the dawn service, so everyone was sitting closer to the service. It was more intimate and felt like being back at home in New Zealand.

Top right is the New Zealand service at Chunuk Bair, bottom right is at Lone Pine where the Australian service was held. Bottom left shows some of the trenches that we walked past. There were poppies on the battle sites.
 

Definitely one of those days whose memories will linger.