Day 48 - Newcastle and North Shields

23 May 2023

We spent a lovely day in Newcastle today. Our plan was to visit some archives, but we had a bit of spare time before they opened so decided to explore a bit of the city centre. The highlight was visiting the Grainger Market, opened in 1835, which was once the largest covered vegetable and butcher market in the country. We were too early for most of the stalls to be open, but the butchers were already well into their day’s work and were very chatty. We learnt about the very important Newcastle United Football Club game that was played last night, and how ‘our’ team drew and so got the all important one point. We were called “Sheila”, given some Wor Cumberland Sausage to try (wor meaning ‘our’ in Geordie, which apparently then lets them use the trademarked Cumberland Sausage name), and we thoroughly enjoyed our walk around the market. It must be buzzing when everything is open – it reminded me a bit of the Grand Bazaar but without the crowds.

 

Some views of Newcastle. Clockwise from top left: the Charles Earl Gray (as in the tea) monument; inside the Grainger Market; a view from outside the market looking towards the monument; football pictures on the escalators down to the Metro train; part of the old city wall.

After our market exploring, we visited the Newcastle Library, the Durham and Northumberland Family History Society, and the Tyne and Wear Archives located in the Discovery Museum. After lots of note taking and photographing, Mum and I have plenty to keep us busy putting it all together once we get back home.

This evening we returned to North Shields and took our final walk along the cliff top, past Dockwray Square, and then down to the fish quay to the local’s favourite pub for dinner. It is called the Low Lights tavern and has been operating out of the same building since the 1600s, and is still privately owned by ‘two lads’, unlike many English corner pubs that are now owned by corporations. Great atmosphere, friendly people and yummy homemade food.

 

Some photographs of North Shield. Clockwise from top left: we now know that this was the exact location of Cuthbert Clark's home and shop in Dockwray Square; the large garden in the centre of Dockwray Square; colourful flowers everywhere; looking across the Tyne River to South Shield, Mum at the top of the cliff opposite Dockwray Square.

Mum and I have found Newcastle to be a vibrant city, with mixed architecture as many older buildings have been retained, lovely wide thoroughfares, and very friendly people. It is a city obviously proud of its history and heritage (and its football team!). Tomorrow we head further south to Yorkshire, trying to avoid toll roads!